The bodice of this garment has an asymetic dartline. Asymmetric darts are on one side only, meaning the pattern cannot be cut on the fold. The pattern must be created by the whole pattern (i.e. the block traced, flipped on the horizontal, and traced again so you start with the whole pattern).
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (1-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 42) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 1
Note that in the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so it can be seen more easily, particularly in the current step. You will be using a hard (4H-6H pencil).
- Trace the block except for the CF line, flip the block over on the CF line, and trace again.
- Mark both Bust Points.
- Mark the Bust Leg points where they touch the edge of the block.
Note that you do not need to mark the Dart Points for the block.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 2
- Lift up the block.
- Draw the dart legs from the Bust Points.
- Draw the design line according to the Flat.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 3
- Cut the pattern from the paper.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 4
- Cut along the style line through the Bust Point and down dart leg A.
You will temporarily have two pattern pieces, which will shortly be sticky-taped together. For the purposes of the instrucitons, they are labelled piece #1 and piece #2.
The darts legs are marked A, B, D & D for instructions purposes.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 5
- Pivot piece #1 on the Bust Point until the dart is closed (dart leg A reaches dart leg B).
- Tape the two pieces together with sticky tape.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 6
- Draw a line from dart leg D touches the edge of the block, through the Bust Point to the other side of the pattern.
- Cut along this design line. You will again temporarily have two separate pieces, now marked piece #2 and piece #3.
Instructions (Style-42) - Figure 7
- Pivot piece #2 on the Bust Point until the dart leg is closed - i.e. dart legs D and C meet.
- Tape the pieces together.
You should have have one pattern piece as the three pieces have been sticky-taped together in the process.
Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, label the pattern piece, etc.