Style 03 (Back)


The bodice of this garment has one dart in the waist, and a yoke design line.

Using the Bodice Block Back to create this style, the shoulder dart in the block is transferred into the yoke styleline.

Example: Outcome

Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left, and the pattern that will be created (Back Style 03) on the right.

Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.

src="images/principles/pivoting-darts/styles/back-style-03-outcome.jpg" alt="back-style-03-outcome" width="600" height="480" />

Instructions (Back Style-03) - Figure 1

In the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to.  You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.

Holding the block firmly in place so it doesn't move:

  • trace the outline of the block onto paper
  • mark the dart legs
  • mark the dart points

You can lift your block up and put it aside.


Instructions (Back Style-03) - Figure 2

  • draw your dart legs (shown in red)
  • measure down from the CB neck point for a quarter of the CB measurement, then draw a line at right angles across the block.  This is the shoulder blade level.


Instructions (Back Style-03) - Figure 3

  • Cut the block shape out from the paper.
  • Cut along the shoulder blade line; you will have two pieces.

src="/images/principles/pivoting-darts/styles/back-style-03-instructions-03.jpg" alt="back-style-03-instructions-03" width="600" height="600" />

Instructions (Style-03) - Figure 4

  • Draw a line along dart leg A to meet the shoulder line (point C).
  • Cut along the A-C line.  This top piece will now be separated into two pieces.


Instructions (Style-03) - Figure 5

  • Pivot the shoulder dart closed (point C is the pivot point).
  • secure the two pieces with sticky tape.

If this was a pattern, you would also need to add seam allowance, label, mark the grainline, etc.


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