The bodice back of this garment has one dart in the waist.
The shoulder dart in the Bodice Block Back is moved into the armhole, making the armhole bigger.
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left, and the pattern that will be created (Back Style 02) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Back Style-02) - Figure 1
In the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to. You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.
Holding the block firmly in place so it doesn't move:
- trace the outline of the block onto paper
- mark the dart legs
- mark the dart points
You can lift your block up and put it aside.
Instructions (Back Style-02) - Figure 2
- draw your dart legs (shown in red)
- measure down from the CB neck point for a quarter of the CB measurement, then draw a line at right angles across the block. This is the shoulder blade level.
Instructions (Back Style-02) - Figure 3
- Cut the block shape out from the paper.
- Draw a line from dart leg A to meet the shoulder blade line; I have marked the point C.
- Cut from A to C, and from C to D. You will have two pieces.
Instructions (Style-02) - Figure 4
- Pivot the cut piece so that the shoulder dart is closed.
- Tape the pieces together.
- Put a piece of paper underneath and finish securing the cut piece.
- Redraw the armhole so it is a smooth curve.
- Make sure the shoulder line is straight.
Note: This has increased the size of the armhole, so note that this will affect the sleeve. This is used more for sleeveless garments.
Instructions (Style-02) - Figure 5
- Cut out again.
If this was a pattern, you would also need to add seam allowance, label, mark the grainline, etc.