In Action: Example

This follows on from Strapless.

in-action-01

In the previous pages we marked contouring information on the Bodice block, but what do we do with this information, how do we use it?

Contouring marks indicate where gaping will occur.   Gaping means that a dart is required, so the solution is to put in a dart. 

In the example in Figure 1, the design line crosses one of the gape dart lines, so a dart is required.  This does not mean putting a dart in the neckline** -  the gape dart needs to be incorporated into the design.   In this case, it will be moved into the side seam dart.

Moving darts to difference places in the Bodice Block is covered in detail in the Manipulating Darts section of the Principles pages, and is a skill you need to learn before attempting to make your own patterns.  Below in an example of how this gape dart information is applied; in this example you can see the difference in the shape of the pattern piece when the gape dart is moved to the side seam dart. 

** Note:  You can put a dart in the neckline if the design calls for it, but in this case it doesn't.

The Gape Dart Moved

In Figures 2 & 3 below, the gape dart has been moved into the side seam dart.

in-action-02

in-action-03


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This comment was minimized by the moderator on the site

hi
if the back neck 10 inches or front neck 8 inches deep then how contouring principal work,
or can u show me how to make the pattern with this neck measurements

prashant
This comment was minimized by the moderator on the site

Hello Prashant,

I'm sorry but the information you have given is not sufficient for me to give a valid answer to your question.

You need to work out the contouring by making yourself a toile, then lowering the neckline and seeing how much...

Hello Prashant,

I'm sorry but the information you have given is not sufficient for me to give a valid answer to your question.

You need to work out the contouring by making yourself a toile, then lowering the neckline and seeing how much gaping occurs. Then you transfer that information (i.e. how much gaping occurs) onto the block. You then pivot that gape dart out of the neckline and into another dart (side seam or waist).

Contouring amounts are different for each individual, but you could if you wanted just use the standard amounts.

Please read these pages on my website:

https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/individual-contouring

https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring/standard-contouring

Regards
Maria

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Comment was last edited about 1 month ago by Maria Maria
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