This top has only 3 pattern pieces:
- Bodice Front
- Bodice Back
- Button Placket Interfacing
Unlike the other three tops in the series, I am not starting off with the Torso Block; I am starting with the pattern for Top 001B. Top 001B was created using the Torso Block, and the only difference between A & B is that this design has two darts in the waist rather than one in the side seam and one in the waist.
Two of the pattern pieces are exactly the same for both patterns; the Bodice Back and the Button Placket Interfacing.
Therefore the instructions here are only for the Bodice Front.
Instructions Top 001c - Figure 1a
- This is the pattern that we are starting out with (This is the same as the final Figure from Top 001B - except I have renamed the pattern pieces Top 001C)
- The Bodice Back and the Interfacing are the same as Top 001b so no changes will be made. They are shown below but from Figure 2 we will see only the Bodice Front.
- Extra paper is needed to fill in the space that will be created as I will be using the cut-and-spread method to make changes to the pattern.
Instructions Top 001c - Figure 2
Moving the side seam dart into the waist
- Draw a line (guides for cutting) from the BP down through the waist; this line needs to be parallel to the CF and at right angles to the waistline.
- Draw a line from from the BP through one of the side seam dart legs at the seam line (marked by a green cross in the image)
- When cutting along these lines, stop a little short of the bust point; it is preferable to leave a little piece attached.
Instructions Top 001b - Figure 3
Pivot the side seam dart closed
- Make sure when you close the side seam dart, you do so at the seam line, not the cutting line (Most time when making patterns you use a block that has no seam allowance. If/when you use an existing pattern, make sure you always work with the seam lines).
- Tape the dart closed, and tape some paper underneath the opened waist dart.
- Measure how much has opened in the hip and the waist.
Now what you should see this manipulation has not only made opened a very large dart in the waist, but it has also added a very large amount to the the hemline of the garment. Be aware that this is particularly with my block/pattern big given how large my side seam bust dart was. With a smaller bust this will not be so much of an issue. See the brown Size 14 showing the difference using a standard block.
You can see three options of possible dart shapes; they are shown in red, green and blue.
Instructions Top 001b - Figure 4
The shape of the darts
Now the fact that I drew the second dart in, even though it is crossed out, helps me with the placement of the second dart.
The issue here is the shape of the dart; it will not be the same original shape as we also want to take the excess that has been added to the hips/hem of the top. You will need to distibute the amount that was added in at the hem and the waist between the two darts. Each person will need to do their own calculations to determine the shape of the dart that works with their measurements fort heir figure. Note that after creating the darts, you should also check in the upper hip or other key areas to areas against your body measurement. You may need to make a toile and check out the best way to shape the darts for you.
See the shape of the darts on my pattern (red) compared to the what may work best on the standard block (Green).