The YouTube Bodice Block Instructions uploaded to YouTube earlier this year contains a mistake (with a flow on effect). These written instructions that show you what the mistake is and how to fix it are a temporary stop-gap measure until I am able to remake those videos.
If you use those instructions without making the necessary conrrections, you will end up with your underam 1 inch too low and your side seam 1 inch too short.
In my corrected instructions I have also decided to add the ease evenly between the front and the back rather than 1/3 to the front and 2/3 to the back. It doesn't actually make a lot of difference and I will explain that in those updated videos when I make them.
I will eventually be remaking the Measurements Video, the Bodice Front (Imperial & Metric) and the Bodice Back (Imperial & Metric) videos.
In the instructions we start with drafting a Moulage. A Moulage is made to the body measurements. However, instead of starting with the Moulage armhole depth, I started with the Sleeves armhole depth.
Double click on any image to open up a larger version.
Then, since we started with the Sleeves Depth for the Moulage, when we reduce the armhole depth for the Sleeves and Sleeveless Block, we are taking away side seam length that is needed, and the armhole will be too low and the side seam length too short.
The Fix Part 1: Taking 4 Measurements differently
The three measurements are: Upper Bust, Armhole Depth, Side Seam Length & Side Seam Bust Depth. This time we will retake all three to the Moulage/Body Measurements.
Make sure there is no slack in any of these measurements. (In the image showing the side seam length there is some slack because there is no-one holding the tape measure taut)..
The Fix Part 2: Instructions Bodice Front
In the Bodice Front Video, replace these instructions from 22:23 to 28.15 (approx) . The information following 28 mins are still relevant and you should watch it, but the block that is being drafted is the original with the incorrect side seam length, etc. (I would recommend you also watch those minutes that these instructions are replacing in case there is other useful informaiton included).
- Measure out for 1/4 inch (0.5cm) from point L, at right angles to the side seam line.
- Mark point L2.
This is the waist ease for both the Sleeveless and Sleeved Blocks. (The waist ease is the same, the upper bust ease will not be the same).
(Step 2) Sleeveless Ease to Upper Bust
3 inches (7.5cm) will be added to the block at the Upper Bust, distributed evenly between the front and the back.
- Calculation: 3 inches divided by 4 = 0.75 inches (2cm) for the half-block front.
- Measure out from point J on the Upper Bust Line
- Mark point J3.
(Step 3) Sleeveless Side Seam
The armhole is dropped 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) for the Sleeveless Block.
- Calculate sleeveless side seam: That is, take the body measurement used for the moulage and minus 5/8 inch (1.5cm) = x.
- Using measurement x, measure from point L2 at the waist, towards point J3. You may want to draw a guideline first (dashed grey line).
- Mark Sleeveless Side Seam Point - J3b.
(Step 4) Sleeveless Armhole
Draw the Sleeveless Armhole.
- Draw the Sleeveless armhole from point G at the shoulder, through point M at across chest and finishing at point J3b.
- Draw the curve to touch the Across Chest Point. (Ease is not needed for the sleeveless block, we will add a bit of ease to the Across Chest Measurement with the Sleeves Block).
The shaded section shows you the ease that has been added to the side seam.
(Step 5) Sleeve Ease to Upper Bust
No we repeat the same process above, except for the Sleeves Block.
5 inches (12.5cm) will be added to the block at the Upper Bust, distributed evenly between the front and the back.
- Calculation: 5 inches divided by 4 = 1.25 inches (3cm) for the half-block front.
- Measure out from point J on the Upper Bust Line
- Mark point J4
Important! Make sure you are measuring from the original moulage point J, not point J3.
(Step 6) Sleeve Side Seam
The armhole is dropped 1 inch (2.5 cm) for the Sleeveless Block.
- Calculate sleeveless side seam: That is, take the body measurement used for the moulage and minus 1 inch (2.5cm) = y.
- Using measurement y, measure from point L2 at the waist, towards point J4. You may want to draw a guideline first (dashed grey line).
- Mark Sleeveless Side Seam Point J4b.
Important! Make sure you are using your original moulage side seam measurement, not the Sleeveless Block side seam measurement.
(Step 7) Sleeve Armhole (including adding ease to the Across Chest)
Draw the Sleeveless Armhole, including some ease in the Across Chest.
- Measure out from point M on the Across Chest line for 1/4 inch (0.5cm).
- Mark point M2.
- Draw the armhole curve for the Sleeves Block from point G, through point M2 and to meet point J4b.
The shaded area shows the ease in the side seam.
The Fix Part 3: Instructions Bodice Back
In the Bodice Front Video, replace these instructions from x min to x min. The information following xx mins are still relevant, but the block that is being drafted in those videos are not correct in terms of the side seam length, etc.
This Bodice Back section will be created soon.