When adding facing to a button stand, you can choose to have the facing as either:
- a separate pattern piece, or
- as an extension to the bodice pattern piece, also termed grown-on.
This page covers the drafting of the separate pattern piece; see the menu for the other option.
When the garment is complete, these two facings (Separate and grown-on) would look identical; the difference is the number of layers of fabric at the CF edge.
While the facing depth for the Bodice Front at the shoulder and the neckline is generally 2-inches (same as the basic Armhole & Neckline, and All-in-One facings), the width at the button extension is usually 3-inches.
Of course the Bodice Back won't need the button stand, so the back facing is just the basic neckline facing. (Width at shoulder 2-inches, depth at CB 4-inches).
The example below walks you through creating the facing for the Bodice Front with a button stand.
Instructions (Facing for Neckline with Button Stand) - Image 1
- Draw the neckline on the Bodice Block.
- Trace the block and transfer the design line.
- Add the button extension width* to the CF - shown in the image by the dashed red line.
* This will depend on the width of your button. I am making the extension 0.5-inches, as that is the diameter of the button.
Instructions (Facing for Neckline with Button Stand) - Image 2
- Step A: Add seam allowance to the pattern piece. In this case I am adding only 0.38-inch of seam allowance to the CF, although the other seams have 0.56-inch.
- Step B: Draw the facing; the width is 2-inches at the shoulder and 3-inches at the CF. These widths are measured at the seam line.
- The final facing is the shown by the yellow shading.
This piece of paper now has both the Bodice Back and the Facing pattern pieces on it. You will have to create the two separate pattern pieces, if you are unsure how best to do this, this is covered in other facings pages; click here to see some of your choices.
You will have to create the Bodice Back Facing, which will be just a normal neckline facing - see the Separate Armhole & Neckline Facings page. Remember to check the Front & Back Facing pattern pieces against each other.