Why Upper Bust, Rather than Bust?


In my instructions, I use the Upper Bust measurement for the width of the Bodice Block, not the Bust measurement. Most block making instructions use the Bust measurement, so why am using the Upper Bust?

The short answer

Instructions that use the Bust Measurement will end up with a Bodice Block that has an Upper Bust measurement 2 inches smaller than the Bust Measurement.  This is fine if you are a B-bust cup, but all other bust cups will end up with the wrong amount of ease in the underarm (Upper Bust) area. 

Starting with the Upper Bust measurement means that all bust cup sizes will end up with the correct amount of ease in the Underarm/Upper Bust.  They will also end up with the correct amount of ease in the bust.

Using my instructions you can also create the correct dart size for your bust cup.

If you have a Bust-Cup larger than a B-cup, this means you will not have to go to the trouble of (a) adjusting the extra width in the upper bust, and (b) doing a large bust adjustment.  With my instructions, both of these are done in the block creation process.

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Why would I want to make my own blocks?


 So you can make your own patterns using these blocks.  Which leads to the next question:  Why would I want to make my own patterns?  For one or more of the following reasons, though there is quite a bit of overlap with some of them:

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