Measurements: Downloadable Blocks

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Hyacinth Daniel
  2. #97
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Hi Maria

I purchased the size 18 complete block set based on my upper bust measurement but I have to reduce the bodice full length front and back and also increase the waist measurement. My back length is 15" and front 18" and waist 34". My...

Hi Maria

I purchased the size 18 complete block set based on my upper bust measurement but I have to reduce the bodice full length front and back and also increase the waist measurement. My back length is 15" and front 18" and waist 34". My upper bust is 39" and full bust 42.

I also need to shorten the shoulder length as my length is 4.5".

Can you please help me with these adjustments.


Regards
Hyacinth

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Hyacinth Daniel
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Maria
  2. #98
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Hello Hyacinth

I need to check those measurements you've given. You have said Full Length Front is 18" and Full Length Back is 15"... 3 inches seems a big difference for these two measurements, given your other measurements. Can you confirm...

Hello Hyacinth

I need to check those measurements you've given. You have said Full Length Front is 18" and Full Length Back is 15"... 3 inches seems a big difference for these two measurements, given your other measurements. Can you confirm that this is what you are measuring (photos 1 & 2), and you are definitely using the same point at the neck? Before I would spend time suggesting adjustments, I need to ask you to take one measurement from front to back (photo 3) to make sure this equals the 2 measurements you are giving me...

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Maria
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  2. #99
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Hi Maria

Thanks for your quick response. Photos 1 and 3 are the correct measurements. Sorry I made a mistake with the measurement in photo 3, I said full back length but I gave you my centre back measurement, that is from nape to waist, so...

Hi Maria

Thanks for your quick response. Photos 1 and 3 are the correct measurements. Sorry I made a mistake with the measurement in photo 3, I said full back length but I gave you my centre back measurement, that is from nape to waist, so sorry. I am not at home now so I will take the measurement of full back length later, that is, if you need it.

Thanks again
Hyacinth

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Hyacinth Daniel
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Hyacinth Daniel
  2. #100
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Hi Maria

I responded to your email yesterday but I am not see that my response. So I am repeating that measurements photos 1 and 3 are correct measurements. I am sorry but I said 15" was the full length back measurement but that was wrong,...

Hi Maria

I responded to your email yesterday but I am not see that my response. So I am repeating that measurements photos 1 and 3 are correct measurements. I am sorry but I said 15" was the full length back measurement but that was wrong, actually that is my centre back measurement ( nape to back waist). The full back length as in photo 2 is 16.5".

Regards
Hyacinth

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Hyacinth Daniel
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Maria    Hyacinth Daniel
  2. #101
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The measurements you are giving me (Full Length Back of 16.5 inches and CB of 15 inches) are significantly different to the block and those two measurements suggest that your Shoulder Slope is also different to the measurements of the block.

T...

The measurements you are giving me (Full Length Back of 16.5 inches and CB of 15 inches) are significantly different to the block and those two measurements suggest that your Shoulder Slope is also different to the measurements of the block.

The adjustments you would need to make are not minor; they are extensive. I am puzzled as to why you purchased this block with measurements so different to your own, rather than draft your own with the instructions I have provided free. ALL of the block measurements of the downloadable blocks for sale are listed on this page - precisely so that people can check how these compare to their own measurements before they buy.

I spent a lot of time and effort writing instructions for people to draft their own blocks. 99% of the information on this website is free to visitors and I have done an enormous amount of work to provide this information.

Because (and only because) I had mentioned that I had some instructions for making changes to commercial patterns in the Fitting Issues pages (which I have not yet done), I felt obliged to assist you this once. However, when I looked at the changes that are required, it is obvious that the adjustments needed are extensive, not minor, and would take me hours to write instructions. I have stressed in my blocks pages that only people with Standard Figures should buy these blocks and that I have written instructions for drafting custom blocks for women with non-standard figures. While I am happy to give some assistance to people, I think it only reasonable that my effort goes into writing instructions that assist everyone; I cannot spend hours writing instructions specifically for you to amend this block to fit your figure.

I have since updated the information on my Blocks pages to make clear that I cannot provide personal assistance in adjusting these blocks. These blocks are the equivalent of purchasing Fitting Shells from Butterick or Vogue; these companies do not provide personal free fitting assistance every time they sell a pattern; that is obviously beyond what is reasonable going into the ridiculous.

Spending $20 on a complete set of blocks that would cost you more than $50 elsewhere, then expecting hours of customization on top of that is completely unreasonable.

Given that I have given so much of my time for free to assist people, I feel extremely unhappy when people make unreasonable requests or assume that I will provide a free block making service. Please spend the time drafting your own block rather than expecting me to do it for you for free.

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Comment was last edited about 1 year ago by Maria Maria
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  2. #102
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I am so sorry Maria.


Thank You
Hyacinth

Hyacinth Daniel
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  2. #138
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Hi my waist is 30inches can this be adjusted once ,buy size 12blocks as it is 26 1/2 for size 12 other measurements will fit

Anne
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Maria    Anne
  2. #140
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Sorry it has taken me so long to reply to your comment,. You can make that adjustment by adding some to the side seams and reducing the darts. It isn't something I could explain in a few words though, especially as I don't know your level of...

Sorry it has taken me so long to reply to your comment,. You can make that adjustment by adding some to the side seams and reducing the darts. It isn't something I could explain in a few words though, especially as I don't know your level of patternmaking and sewing knowledge.

You need an additional 3.5 inches in the waist. Even though there is a 1.75 inch dart in the front and 1.75 inch dart in the back, you don't just want to eliminate the darts; that won't work well.

There is (in effect) a .68 inch dart in the FRONT side seam (i.e. if you closed the front side seam dart, the resulting side seam line would not be straight. Adding that .68cm will make that side seam line straight). First add that back in that .68cm, as shown in image 01-increase waist.

Then on the Back Block, redraw the side seam line so it is at right angles to the waist plane and parallel to the centre front. You will gain .88 (7/8 of an inch, 2.25 cm) here, as shown in image 02-increase-waist.

So you have gained 1.5 inches. The other 2 inches you take from the darts - i.e. reduce each dart by 1 inch. Having said that, you may want to make the toile and not sew up the darts, then work out how the distribution best works with your body. (e.g. if you have a sway back and a large stomach, you may want the back dart to the larger than the front dart).

See images 03 and 04 to see what the blocks would end up like (if you reduced both darts equally). The pink lines show the new block and dart lines.

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Maria
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Maria    Maria
  2. #141
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Here are the other 2 images.

Maria
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Savannah
  2. #326
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Hi there Maria, I love your website and I really appreciate all of the information you've generously made available. I'm drafting some quarter-scale patterns using the standard size measurements listed here to practice techniques while I wait to...

Hi there Maria, I love your website and I really appreciate all of the information you've generously made available. I'm drafting some quarter-scale patterns using the standard size measurements listed here to practice techniques while I wait to be professionally measured. I noticed recently that the PDF file under the Size 22 tab is also the same file that's under the Size 20 tab. I just wanted to make this aware for anyone else who might be practicing in a likewise manner.

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Savannah
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Maria    Savannah
  2. #328
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Hi Savannah

Thanks for letting me know about the mistake. Sometime told me not that long ago that all the measurements for sizes 20 and 22 were identical in those 2 tabs (both size 20); it looks like I fixed the problem on the actual page, but...

Hi Savannah

Thanks for letting me know about the mistake. Sometime told me not that long ago that all the measurements for sizes 20 and 22 were identical in those 2 tabs (both size 20); it looks like I fixed the problem on the actual page, but forgot about the downloadable PDF. I will fix it up now.

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Comment was last edited about 4 weeks ago by Maria Maria
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