This page and its sub-menu contains preliminary information that you may need to refer to when drafting the block. See the menu for the instructions page. .
Sleeve Head Ease
The sleeve cap needs some ease to allow it to be sewn into the armhole. We are aiming for the minimal amount of ease which allows the sleeve to be easily sewn in, but without forming gathers or pleats. (You add any additional Style or Design Ease when you make your patterns).
The amount of minimal ease needed for the sleevehead is about 1.25 to 1.75 inches. This means that the sleeve cap curve needs to measure about 1.25 to 1.75 inches (or about 8-9%) more than the Front and the Back armholes measurements added together.
Some of this ease is added when drawing the straight line in Image 2 (i.e. the straight line is the armhole measurements plus some ease), and the rest is a result of creating the curve around the straight line.
Elbow Dart
This Sleeve Block we are creating includes an elbow dart. The length of the dart is best determined when fitting your toile, but you can refer to the table on the Sleevehead Ease and Elbow dart page for measurements you can use as a starting guide.
Cap Height
The Cap Height measurement is taken from your body. We also will work out the ideal Cap Height that will produce minimum ease in the sleevehead. Refer to the articles: Understanding the Sleeve for an explanation.
Measurements used in these instructions
These measurements are the BODY measurements, the Block will have ease added.
| Measurement | inches |
|---|---|
| Bicep | 10.38 |
| Full Length Sleeve | 22 |
| Cap to Elbow | 13.88 |
| Front Armhole | 8.13 |
| Back Armhole | 8.13 |
| Elbow Circumference | 10 |
| Elbow Dart Length* | 3 |
Download the above measurements following along with the instructions: Measurements-Instructions-Sleeve (1 page PDF file).