Upper Bust Ease

This article was updated on 13 April 2020, changing the Upper Bust ease from 6-inches to 5-inches.

On the introductory page I have noted that the amount of ease to add to the Upper Bust is 5 inches; this amount of ease will work pretty well for all Bust Cup Sizes, and will result in between 2 and 3 inches ease in the Bust.

You can, however, use the amount of ease listed in the table below instead.  Using the amounts specified in the table will more consistently result in 3 inches ease in the bust.

Upper Bust Ease that will result in 3 inches ease in the Bust

Bust CupAmount of Ease
No difference between UB and B 3.50 inches | 11.50 cm
A-Cup 3.87 inches | 12.25 cm
B-Cup 4.25 inches | 13.25 cm
C-Cup 4.63 inches | 14.25 cm
D-Cup 5 inches | 15.25 cm
DD-Cup 5.38 inches | 16.25 cm

For details about this specific amount of ease, see the article: Why Upper Bust rather than Bust?

See below for all the articles that relate in some form or other to the Upper Bust Ease:

Ease in Bodice, General

Ease in Bodice: Joseph-Armstrong

Ease in Bodice: Aldrich

Large Bust Adjustment

Large Bust Adjustment: The Gotcha

Ease in Patterns & Blocks

Drafting the Bodice Block

 

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Guest
  2. #341
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Helllo Maria, I thoroughly went through all your tutorials and it made a lot of sense. What is your opinion on drafting when high bust is bigger then full bust. So full - high gives a negative number. It may be due to rounded back. But how to...

Helllo Maria, I thoroughly went through all your tutorials and it made a lot of sense. What is your opinion on drafting when high bust is bigger then full bust. So full - high gives a negative number. It may be due to rounded back. But how to determine cup size for drafting in this case? Any thoughts? Thanks

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Diya
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Maria    Diya
  2. #346
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Hi Diya

This is a bit tricky if the Upper Bust measurement is very large due to a rounded upper back.

Assuming you have some breast tissue, and not a flat chest, then you still need a dart in the front.

So first I need to ask - what is your...

Hi Diya

This is a bit tricky if the Upper Bust measurement is very large due to a rounded upper back.

Assuming you have some breast tissue, and not a flat chest, then you still need a dart in the front.

So first I need to ask - what is your bra cup size?

Maria

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Comment was last edited about 8 months ago by Maria Maria
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Maria, thank you for such an incredibly helpful resource. This is by and far the most excellent content I’ve found online regarding this subject. I also have the same question regarding full bust and high bust. For me my high bust and full bust...

Maria, thank you for such an incredibly helpful resource. This is by and far the most excellent content I’ve found online regarding this subject. I also have the same question regarding full bust and high bust. For me my high bust and full bust are both 35.5”. I do not have a round back, rather my upper back is broad due to an athletic build from being rather fit. If it’s helpful, as a reference my waist is 30” and hips 37”. I wear a 32C bra. I’ve been stumped for a while on this for issue and often do a broad shoulder adjustment. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

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Lauren
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Maria    Lauren
  2. #432
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Hi Lauren

Have you watched any of my videos on Bodice Block Essentials? You might find them useful.

I am in the process of refining my Bodice Block Instructions, and it started from a question from a woman who had the same measurement for...

Hi Lauren

Have you watched any of my videos on Bodice Block Essentials? You might find them useful.

I am in the process of refining my Bodice Block Instructions, and it started from a question from a woman who had the same measurement for her Upper Bust and Bust, but she wore a B Cup Bra. Although Patternmaking Bust Cups and Bra Bust Cups are different, going by Patternmaking Bust Cup definition, this meant she wouldn't need a side seam dart. This didn't seem right to me and so I found out what the problem is. My refined system will solve the issue.

Although this may seem more information than you were wanting, I do suggest you watch the whole 5 videos to get the background to get a good understanding.

This is Part 1, you can find the others under the Videos Menu, or just go to my Youtube Channel.

https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/videos/video-patternmaking-bust-cups-vs-bra-bust-cups

After watching all these, consider that although you have a Broad Upper Back, you may still have a narrow back at your bust level so that your Front Bust Arc is much bigger than your Back Bust Arc. Regardless, I think my new instructions should work for anyone. However, they are still a few weeks away.

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Comment was last edited about 4 months ago by Maria Maria
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Lauren    Maria
  2. #434
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Hi Maria,

I was reading the mobile version of your website and I somehow missed the videos! I just finished the first 5 parts of the series and it makes complete sense. While I planned to redraft my bodice block this week (I originally used the...

Hi Maria,

I was reading the mobile version of your website and I somehow missed the videos! I just finished the first 5 parts of the series and it makes complete sense. While I planned to redraft my bodice block this week (I originally used the armstrong version), I'm now going to wait until you release your new instructions. It makes complete sense to me to do the front and back separately and I think this will solve a lot of my problems. I'll need to have a second hand to double check my measurements but roughly checking, my back bust arc and front bust arc are about equal.

I look forward to continuing to follow along with your content. I've already learned so much. Thank you!

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Lauren
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