Instructions Video: Bodice Front - 2-Dart Block

The other videos in this series are:

Drafting the Bodice Back

Drafting the Sleeve

Drafting the Pants Block, Part 1: Introduction & Measurements

Drafting the Pants Block, Part 2

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Guest
  2. #133
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Hello!

Firstly, thank you for making you pattern drafting method available to everyone. It's so helpful, no one has explained the upper bust problem as clearly and I've really enjoyed reading through all the pages on this website over the last...

Hello!

Firstly, thank you for making you pattern drafting method available to everyone. It's so helpful, no one has explained the upper bust problem as clearly and I've really enjoyed reading through all the pages on this website over the last couple of weeks! I've tried many drafting methods and always run into the same problems. I'm finally drafting a new set of blocks using your method!

Secondly, I'm a little confused as your new video (which I'm assuming has the most up to date information) has a different method for swinging the dart than the written instructions - in one version, you draw the lower 3/16" line before swinging the dart, and in the video you swing first and then drop the line. This has an impact on my side seam dart and I'm not sure which method to follow! Any advice would be welcome. The measurements used for the darts etc are also different to the written instructions and the measurements PDF - is this because you've reduced the upper bust ease for your new method? I've been using your new info where possible as I figured it would just take a while to update everything - I hope this is the best plan!

Thank you so much for all your help and this amazing website! Molly

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Molly
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Maria
  2. #134
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Hi Molly,

Thanks for taking the time to write a comment, I do really appreciate comments.

Hope you have success with your blocks, let me know if you have any problems.

I do need to flag something though... If you are going to be drafting the...

Hi Molly,

Thanks for taking the time to write a comment, I do really appreciate comments.

Hope you have success with your blocks, let me know if you have any problems.

I do need to flag something though... If you are going to be drafting the Pants Block as well and If you generally have problems getting pants to fit, I suggest you don't use the current written Pants Block instructions on my website. I have a new system for drafting pants that will get a better result for more people. I have had that system for a year or two now and just haven't had to time to get the information up, but that should be up within 10 days or so - in video format only though, not written.

I am a bit concerned that some people might not be getting the best results because they not getting correct measurements; I plan on making a video on measuring as well, but that one is more complicated and requires more time and resources, so that won't be finished for at least another month. That video will cover measurements generally, and how to take some of those difficult ones by yourself (shoulder slope, full length back and front, making sure you get the exact crotch length you need), focusing mainly on the Bodice and Pants.

Cheers,
Maria

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Comment was last edited about 9 months ago by Maria Maria
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Guest
  2. #169
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Thanks for the best directions I have found. Particularly the larger cup directions and information about pattern cup size vs bra cup size . Again thanks for putting this up.

Ivy
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Maria    Ivy
  2. #179
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Hello Ivy,

Thanks for the positive feedback.

I have a few articles regarding Cup Sizes, here's one of them:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/blog/bust-cup-sizes

Regarding pattern cups and bra cups... I am planning on learning to draft...

Hello Ivy,

Thanks for the positive feedback.

I have a few articles regarding Cup Sizes, here's one of them:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/blog/bust-cup-sizes

Regarding pattern cups and bra cups... I am planning on learning to draft bras at some point, and putting up some directions for drafting them too. But that will be later this year. I have drafted and made myself undies (a.k.a. panties and knickers) and will be putting those instructions up in a few months.

Good luck with your patternmaking or sewing or whatever brought you to my website....

Maria

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Maria
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Elizabeth N Buerger
  2. #208
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Hi Maria, I have enjoyed looking about your website and your videos. I am completely new to pattern making, but very excited about it. I am also very confused! I just took my measurements and followed along with the video to attempt my first...

Hi Maria, I have enjoyed looking about your website and your videos. I am completely new to pattern making, but very excited about it. I am also very confused! I just took my measurements and followed along with the video to attempt my first pattern block. What I have ended up with doesn't seem right. My H-J1-N armhole connection curves OUT not in, my I-L2-F3 neck hole ends up being mostly a flat line, and my waist line is not flat, or even flattish, but has a 45 degree line from U2 to T2 to connect it. It seems like that might be less exaggerated and also fix the neckline if my F line and A line shift down a couple inches, but don't know if that's a legal move. I am at a loss! I've included a picture, if it is of any help.

Where did I go wrong?

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Elizabeth N Buerger
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Maria    Elizabeth N Buerger
  2. #209
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Hello Elizabeth

The most difficult part of block making is taking your measurements correctly. The problem here is that I can't tell whether you have taken your measurements incorrectly, or whether you took them correctly but applied them...

Hello Elizabeth

The most difficult part of block making is taking your measurements correctly. The problem here is that I can't tell whether you have taken your measurements incorrectly, or whether you took them correctly but applied them incorrectly in the block making process.

What I can tell you is that the Full Length Front or the Shoulder Slope measurement you are using are incorrect. I suspect both. (Of course there is a huge problem at the side seam, but there's no point in looking at that until the first mistakes are fixed....)

If you send me these four body measurements, I'll be able to hazard a guess whether you are using incorrect measurements or making mistakes when drafting the block.

1) Full Length Front
2) Centre Front Length
3) Across Shoulder
4) Shoulder Slope

Also include your:
5) Upper Bust measurement, and
6) Bust Cup

By the way, if you are not American, please send me your measurements in cm rather than inches.

Maria

PS. If you get back to me in a the next couple of hours I'll be able to respond straight away, otherwise it might be a few days or a week until I will have time to help.

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Comment was last edited about 7 months ago by Maria Maria
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Elizabeth N Buerger
  2. #212
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Thank you for being willing to look at this! I did go through and realize my across chest was off by 3 inches. That solved the armhole issue!

The other measurements are:
1) Full Length Front - 19” (I am American )
2) Centre Front Length - 16”
3)...

Thank you for being willing to look at this! I did go through and realize my across chest was off by 3 inches. That solved the armhole issue!

The other measurements are:
1) Full Length Front - 19” (I am American )
2) Centre Front Length - 16”
3) Across Shoulder - 7”
4) Shoulder Slope - 19”
5) Upper Bust measurement - 42”
6) Bust Cup - C cup

No worries on the timing. My little boy keeps me quite busy and I don’t get to sew often because of it.

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Elizabeth N Buerger
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Maria    Elizabeth N Buerger
  2. #213
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Hi Elizabeth,

You have made a DRAFTING mistake in either the Full Length Front measurement or the Shoulder Slope. Your measurements say that they are both 19 inches. If that is the case, then the Shoulder Slope line will end before it...

Hi Elizabeth,

You have made a DRAFTING mistake in either the Full Length Front measurement or the Shoulder Slope. Your measurements say that they are both 19 inches. If that is the case, then the Shoulder Slope line will end before it reaches the B to C line. I suspect that your Full Length Front is wrong because there does not seem to be 3 inches difference between your Full Length Front and your Centre Front Length. I think it's best you start again and really check your measurements as you go along.

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Maria
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Maria    Elizabeth N Buerger
  2. #214
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Hello Elizabeth

I suspect that you have your Upper Bust measurement wrong. See attachment.

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Elizabeth N Buerger
  2. #216
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Thank you for your feedback, Maria! This will set me on the right path, I’m sure!

Elizabeth N Buerger
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