Sleeve Changes for Stretch Torso

We will draft a sleeve that has both Stretchwoven and Knit ratios on it.

Instructions:  Drafting the Stretchwoven Sleeve Block, Figure 1

I am actually going to remove the elbow dart,  even through we can have darts in the Stretchwoven Block.  I don't think the elbow dart is really necessary for Stretchwoven.  This means that the Sleeve I will end up with can be used for both Stretchwoven and Knits; i.e. it will have various stretch ratios indicated, from the Strethwoven to the Super Stretchy amount.

We will first remove the elbow dart before making the modifications to match the reduction in width and the raising of the armhole.

  • Trace the curve and the underarm seam without the dart (don't trace the underarm seam with the dart, or the wristline)
  • Mark the shoulder point and continue that line down vertically to mark the centre line for the wrist.
  • Mark the elbow line.
  • Mark the front and back armhole notches.

If you want to draft a block with an elbow dart for Stretchwovens, then trace your Sleeve Block out including the dart, then continue from Figure 4.

drafting stretch sleeve figure 01

Instructions:  Drafting the Stretchwoven Sleeve Block, Figure 2

Remove the block and:

  • Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder point A, down to the mid-wrist point B.
  • Draw in the bicep line from C to D.
  • Draw in the elbow line* for the front of the sleeve from E to F.
  • Draw in the wrist line* for the fron tof the sleeve from G to B.

*Make sure the wrist and elbow lines are at right angles to the A~B line.

drafting stretch sleeve figure 02

Instructions:  Drafting the Stretchwoven Sleeve Block, Figure 3

  • Measure from E to F on the elbow line (value = x) and then continue that line to H for for the value of x.
  • Measure from G to B on the wrist line (value = y) and then continue that line to I for the value of y.
  • Draw in the other underarm line from D to I.

drafting stretch sleeve figure 03

Instructions:  Drafting the Stretchwoven Sleeve Block, Figure 4

We need to make the corresponding changes to the Sleeve that we made to the Torso Block when we drafted the Stretchwoven.  You need the measurements you used to amend the Torso Block.The changes I made were:

  • Reduced the width of the Block by 1/4 inch.
  • Raised the armhole of the Torso Block by 1/2 inch.

We will make the corresponding changes to the sleeve:

  • Measure in along the underarm line for 1/4 inch and draw the new underarm line (shown in red)
  • Measure up from that new underarm line for 1/2 up to raise the armhole (shown in green).

drafting stretch sleeve figure 04

Instructions:  Drafting the Stretchwoven Sleeve Block, Figure 5

  • Redraw the sleevehead, blending from the new underarm points to the notch point/s, front and back.
  • You now have your Stretchwoven Sleeve.

We will now mark the Knit Ratios on the sleeve, using the measurements we used on our Knit Sloper.

drafting stretch sleeve figure 05

Instructions:  Drafting the Stretchwoven Sleeve Block, Figure 6

Using the measurements from your Knit Block, mark the reductions on your Sleeveblock. 

Remember that you had 2 options when reducing your Knit Block:

  • Percentage of Block Measurements
  • Percentage of Body Measurements

If you used Percentage of Block Measurements, the Stretchwoven and the Stable Knits will be the same.  If you used Percentage of Body Measurements, the block outline will be Stretchwoven, and all the Knit ratios will be marked inside that.

drafting stretch sleeve figure 06

 

 

 

 

 

 

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