Instructions: Stretchwoven from Torso

There are 4 articles in these instructions, and they follow on from each other:

  1. Stretchwoven Block (SW)
  2. Knit Block from SW,  Method A (Back and Front the same except for neckline)
  3. Knit Block from SW,  Method B (Back and Front armhole different)
  4. Knit Block from SW, Method C (If you experience difficulties with armhole / shape of block with Method B)

Refer to the article: Stretch Basics for Patternmaking, Part 3: Challenges for Non-Standard figures if you want an understand these differences before following the instructions.

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 1

We will start by tracing out the front:

  • Transfer all markings onto the paper below, i.e.
    • dart legs
    • dart points
    • bust point

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 01

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 2

The traced original block and markings will be drawn with dashed grey lines.  The new block will have unbroken lines ( in different colours for emphasis).

After drawing in darts and waistline:

  • Measure in 1/4 inch* all along the side seam and draw the new side seam line (shown as a red line)
  • At the armhole measure up 1/2 inch from the new side seam line, as a continuation of the new side seam (shown as a green notch mark)
  • Measure up 1/4 inch from centre front neck point (shown by the orange notch mark).

* Please go read the Supplementary Information before deciding how much reduction to apply to your block.  1/4-inch is what I'm using, you may want or need to use another amount.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 02

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 3

We will move the waist, darts and dart points a little:

  • Redraw the waistline 1/4 inch above the original.
  • Move bust point 1/4 inch towards CF.
  • Move the side seam dart  in 1/4 inch.
  • Move the waist darts up 1/4 inch to match the new waistline.

Finish off the block outline:

  • Redraw the neckline, blending to the high shoulder point.
  • Redraw the armhole, blending up to the shoulder tip,
  • Since we've moved the waist up 1/4 inch, move the hem line up 1/4 inch also.  (For this small amount you can just take it off the hem).

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 03

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 4

If you have two darts in the front (some women with larger waists may not have) move the smaller dart either into the larger dart, into the side seam, or part into both:

  • Measure the width of the dart
  • Measure in for that amount from the side seam
  • Redraw the side seam.

On the right is the final Stretchwoven Block overlaid on the original Torso Block (dashed grey lines).  Note that we will still have to true the front up to the back, so we still may need to tweak it a bit before making it out of cardboard.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 04

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 5

We will now move onto the back and repeat most (but not all) of the changes that we made to the front, plus remove the back shoulder dart.

  • Trace the Back Torso Block, transferring all markings to the paper below:
    • dart legs
    • dart points
    • waistline

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 05

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 6

In the front we moved the CF neck point up a little; we do not need to move the CB neck  point up.  The other difference in the back is that there is a shoulder dart to remove.

  • Measure in 1/4 inch all down the side seam.
  • Measure up from the armhole for 1/2 inch, continuing up that same side seam line.
  • Measure the width of the shoulder dart and measure in for that amount from the shoulder point.
  • Draw a line from the neck point A, along the shoulder point through point B, the first dart leg, and continue it on. This is the new shoulder line.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 06

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 7

  • Draw the new shoulder line and armhole,, meeting at the new side seam line.
  • Raise up the waistline, the waist darts and the hemline 1/4 inch.

Note that we won't bother moving the waist darts in towards CB as we did with the front. In the front is needed to improve the fit of the bust, but in the back it really doesn't matter.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 07

Instructions: Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 8

As we did in the front, we will remove one of the darts in the back.

  • Measure the width of the dart
  • Measure in for that amount from the side seam
  • Redraw the side seam.

On the right is the final Stretchwoven Block overlaid on the original Torso Block (dashed grey lines).  Note that we will still have to true the front up to the back, so we still may need to tweak it a bit before making it out of cardboard.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 08

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 9

Check and true the front to the back:

  • Shoulder length
  • Armhole Curve
  • Neckline Curve
  • Side seam Length
  • Flow through at hem from front to back
  • Armholes curve from front to back
  • Some fine-tuning may be required at the waist and the side seam lines when checking the back to the front.

If necessary (if it has changed after truing), you will need to make a final copy, then label and notch.

See Figure 10 for the final copy which will be used to make the Knit Blocks.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 09

Instructions:  Drafting the Torso Stretchwoven Block -  Figure 10

This is the final Stretchwoven Block, Front & Back, which can be used to draft patterns for stretchwoven fabrics, and also used as the starting point for drafting the Knit Blocks.

drafting stretchwoven torso figure 10

 

 

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