Drafting the Stretch/Knit Torso Blocks

torso block normal and stretch

I will be be drafting the Stretch/Knit Torso Blocks using the Torso Block.

First I will draft the Stretchwoven Block; as the name suggests you can use this block to make patterns for woven fabrics.  Use this block for wovens that have about 18-20% stretch.

Then I'll remove the darts from the Stretchwoven Block to create the Knit Block.  You can put all the information for drafting patterns for different knit stretch ratios, i.e. Stable Knits, Moderate Stretch Knits, Stretchy Knits and Super Stretchy Knits on the one block, or create a different block for each stretch ratio.

With some drafting instructions, the Knit Sloper, the Front & Back end up exactly the same except for the neckline.  In other instructions the front armhole ends smaller and higher than the back armhole, so obviously the Front and Back are not identical. Of course this affects the fit.   I will actually be covering a couple of methods, so skim through and decide which you prefer.  The method you choose should depend on how much your body does or does not differ from the Standard Figure.

For background and supporting information I suggest you read these three articles before drafting this block:

  • Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 1: Introduction
  • Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 2: Blocks
  • Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 3: Challenges for Non-Standard Figures

Creating the dartless Knit Block from the Stretchwoven (i.e. removing the darts) can be a bit challenging if you have a very cury figure; i.e. the difference in the Upper Bust, Bust, Waist and Hip measurements are very large.  You may make a toile only to find it doesn't not fit well at all, particularly in the armhole.  You might alternatively find that the shape of the block you end up with is so weird you wonder it's worth making a toile.  This will affect mainly the armhole and I will suggest a way of dealing with this.

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Just what I was needing to draw a armhole of a problematic tshirt that comes out very big, thank you very much. I love the drawings. Greetings, Sara.

Sara Gutiérrez
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